We arrived Sunday and our driver graciously stopped along the drive from the airport to show us a river that more than 3,000 crocodiles call home. He offered to book a boat tour if we were interested. Gosh thanks but no. Nope. Never.
On Day 2 we drove south to a beach called Esterillos because the waves in Jaco were small. The waves looked big. The paddle out was rough. There was a rip tide to push against. By the time I made it out 200m and sat up past the break, I was panting hard. These waves looked big. (Big is a relative term when you're sitting out in the water. What looked big to me would probably look normal to you. We are not talking overhead barrels here...) I got the first wave of the day by chance and stood up easily. Alonso yelled at me to turn right and I rode the glassy face of that wave for about 25 yards. It might as well have been a mile. I felt like a total stud. Then I fell off and realized I had to paddle back out again. Crap.
Our long drive to the beach meant that the 2-hour session turned into one hour of actual time in the water. During which I caught four great waves, missed two and sat in the line up watching a bad-ass surf chick from Florida rip up and down waves to my right. It was a gorgeous morning. I was so bummed B Daddy wasn't there to watch. (I was in the beginner class, he was busy doing this in the "not beginner" class.)
For surf session 3 we were back in Jaco where the waves had picked up but the paddle out still wasn't far. Day 3 was when it started to get really fun. I had the confidence to start turning into the wave and riding the long face of it sideways. I also I realized how much more to surfing there is than just standing up on your board. Alonso stopped pushing me. Which meant I actually had to paddle hard to catch a wave. I watched sadly as more than one crested and crashed in front of me while I slid down the backside.
Between his occasional pushes and my luck catching a few on my own I had the best time. It was an hour before sunset and every time I had to paddle back past the break I had the motivation of catching just one more before the sun set on the day.
brilliant little video and capture some still frames that make everything look cooler and more exciting than it was. Okay that's not true. I was thrilled to be on the waves and felt incredibly cool, so if that's what you get from the picture or video, then they are reflecting real-life. If you're extrapolating that you're seeing a surfer who knows what she's doing - now that is not real-life. I was stoked, but by no means was anyone on the beach thinking, dang that girl is amazing. I made this less brilliant video which is slightly more reflective of an actual surf day. Lots of sitting around waiting for a wave, lots of falling off the board and lots and lots and lots of paddling.
On the last ride of the last morning of surfing the fin of my board hit me hard in the face while I was underwater and I came up holding my cheek and wincing. A quick glance from the German girl next to me told me that yes, it was in fact bleeding, which meant I had the privilege of visiting the local hospital and getting an insider's perspective on healthcare in the 3rd world. Suuuuper fun let me tell you. But hey, 4 stitches and $106.00 later I was on my way.
We spent all day Sunday rotating from the porch to the beach to the pool to the porch. It was UN-REAL. Y'all the ocean was 50 steps away and the pool was 40. Does life get any better? I argue it does not.
On Monday we did the same thing for a few hours before our ride pulled up to take us to the airport. We left with full hearts and considerable brain capacity devoted to how we can pull off another surf trip soon and maybe even bring the kids along.
HERE (if you follow him on Instagram...which you should cuz he's hot and awesome) and there should be more videos coming as he finds time to put to use all the new tricks he learned in his GoPro class.